Cosmetics ingredients once discussed mostly in dermatology clinics, research labs or professional spas are now widely available. And biotechnology, or biotech, for personal care products is a rapidly growing part of the industry.
Biotech beauty is fueled by consumer demand for products that promise effective, “clinical,” “regenerative” and “science backed” results at home. These ingredients usually promise to be “anti-aging” or to provide “cellular repair” or “barrier strength.”
But biotech ingredients do not automatically make a product safe, effective or well studied. For most products, premarket tests aren’t required and claims may be backed by very little data. Consumers should look beyond marketing claims and ask what evidence supports claims about an ingredient’s safety and benefits.
Biotech in personal care products refers to ingredients inspired by biology, medicine or lab-based innovation. It’s not a single category and can include familiar skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid and newer ingredients like polydeoxyribonucleotide, or PDRN, and spicules.
Cosmetics using PDRN
You may have heard of “salmon facials” and skincare using “salmon sperm.” These treatments use DNA fragments from salmon sperm to help boost collagen and reduce signs of aging.
The ingredient behind the buzz is PDRN, which activates tissue repair. Botanical versions are also emerging in the market.
PDRN is not entirely new. For decades, it has been approved for medical use in Italy and South Korea, including as a treatment for wounds and ulcers.
Cosmetics that contain PDRN are available in the U.S. too. But since the Food and Drug Administration does not require pre-marketing tests of ingredients, PDRN's presence on store shelves doesn’t indicate it’s been reviewed for safety or efficacy.
In lab studies, injected PDRN has been shown to increase collagen production, which helps smooth and firm the skin.
Topical PDRN has been shown to support skin regeneration for skin ulcers. The data about undamaged skin is limited, but topical PDRN may not penetrate deeply enough for meaningful results.
PDRN is believed to be a lower hazard ingredient, though there is no data on carcinogenicity or reproductive harm. An animal study showed no acute toxicity and no effects to major organs, even at high doses.
PDRN from salmon sperm can be a concern for people allergic to salmon. If you have a fish allergy and want to try products with PDRN, look for plant-based instead.
PDRN’s pathway is also used by certain types of tumors to grow and evade immune responses. So anyone with cancer or a history of cancer should consult their doctor before use, even though no evidence currently links topical PDRN to cancer.
It can be difficult to tell whether a product contains PDRN. Product marketing may highlight PDRN, but you won't find it on ingredient labels. Instead, look for the term “sodium DNA.”
Cosmetics using spicules
“Liquid microneedling” is also gaining popularity.
It’s a technology based on another biotech ingredient: spicules. These are tiny, needle-like structures from marine sponges or synthetically produced using silica. Liquid microneedling is a topical treatment that creates tiny openings in the skin, triggering collagen production and helping skincare penetrate more deeply.
Spicules are promoted as a way to help other beauty product ingredients penetrate the skin, rather than the main active ingredient. They are often paired with ingredients like PDRN, peptides and hyaluronic acid.
The data is limited, but spicules are believed to be lower hazard ingredients. A bigger concern is the other ingredients in the same product.
Spicules can help some ingredients pass through the skin barrier, making some formulas more effective but also increasing risk of exposure to potentially harmful chemicals, like certain fragrance ingredients.
If you’re reaching for a product with spicules, consider the safety of its other ingredients. By design, spicules affect the skin barrier and can cause redness, stinging or irritation, so they’re best avoided by people with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, active acne or a compromised skin barrier.
But it can be difficult to tell whether a product has spicules. Marketing may call out spicules, but ingredient labels won’t. Instead look for the term “hydrolyzed sponge” on the label.
Tips for consumers
If you’re thinking about buying a biotech-inspired beauty product, consider these tips:
- Consult resources like EWG’s free searchable database of personal care products, Skin Deep®, to make more informed choices. Skin Deep considers increased absorption when scoring products.
- When you’re out shopping for cosmetics, you can also use EWG’s Healthy Living™ app to learn more about a product, its ingredients and safety.
- Look for products bearing the EWG Verified® mark, which means it is free from EWG's ingredients of concern and meets our strictest standards for your health.
- If you have sensitive skin, talk to a dermatologist or patch-test the product before applying it more extensively.
- If you want to avoid animal-derived ingredients, beware vegan marketing claims and check ingredients carefully, since animal-derived ingredients may not always be obvious on the label. Look for full disclosure about ingredients.
